Cosmetic compositions and methods

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates generally to methods of use and compositions useful for treating skin. The composition includes a combination of one or more of  Butyrospermum parkii  (shea butter), PEG-50 shea butter, glycerin,  Helianthus annuus  (sunflower) seed oil,  Prunus armeniaca  (apricot) kernel oil, acrylates copolymer, sodium lauryl sulfate, lauramidopropyl betaine, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, glycerin, and polyquaternium-7.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation of U.S. application Ser. No.15/850,595 filed Dec. 21, 2017, which claims the benefit of U.S.Provisional Application No. 62/439,956 filed Dec. 29, 2016. The contentsof each referenced application are incorporated into the presentapplication by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION A. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates generally to cosmetic compositions thatcan be used to clean, condition, protect, and/or improve the skin'scondition and/or visual appearance. In certain aspects, the compositionsof the present invention can include, for example, a combination ofingredients to promote moisturization, smooth skin, renew skin, and/orclean skin. This combination of ingredients can be included in awide-range of product formulations (e.g., serums, creams, butters,cleansers, masks, scrubs, toners, gels, emulsions, gel emulsions, gelserums, etc.).

B. Description of Related Art

Ageing, chronic exposure to adverse environmental factors, malnutrition,fatigue, etc., can change the visual appearance, physical properties, orphysiological functions of skin in ways that are considered visuallyundesirable. The most notable and obvious changes include thedevelopment of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, increasedsagging, loss of firmness, loss of color evenness or tone, coarsesurface texture, and mottled pigmentation. Less obvious but measurablechanges which occur as skin ages or endures chronic environmental insultinclude a general reduction in cellular and tissue vitality, reductionin cell replication rates, reduced cutaneous blood flow, reducedmoisture content, accumulated errors in structure and function,alterations in the normal regulation of common biochemical pathways, anda reduction in the skin's ability to remodel and repair itself. Many ofthe alterations in appearance and function of the skin are caused bychanges in the outer epidermal layer of the skin, while others arecaused by changes in the lower dermis.

Maintaining moisture of the skin helps overcome some unwanted changes inskin. However, maintaining moisture of the skin can be difficult.Exposure to chemicals, solvents, washing, cosmetics, fabrics, or dryenvironments are some of the many ways that skin can lose moisture.

Moisturizers are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially designedto make the external layers of the skin (epidermis) softer and morepliable. Some moisturizers increase the skin's hydration (water content)by reducing evaporation. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols, aswell as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants,etc., may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers.They usually are available as commercial products for cosmetic andtherapeutic uses, but can also be made at home using common pharmacyingredients. However, moisturizers are not perfect. Some problemsassociated with moisturizers include unpleasant tactile properties(e.g., heavy, greasy, or sticky feel), instability, skin-irritation, orinsufficient moisturization capabilities.

Previous attempts to improve the visual appearance of skin with knownskin active-ingredients have been shown to have various drawbacks suchas skin irritation, prolonged recovery periods, or inefficient deliveryof the promised skin benefits. Current products may not address each ofthese shortcomings.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have identified a solution to the problems associated withcurrent cosmetic products. The solution resides in a combination ofingredients that can be used to create formulas ranging from emulsionlotions, emulsion creams, body scrub or exfoliating formulations, andbody wash or cleansing formulas. The ingredients can includeButyrospermum parkii (shea butter) and/or PEG-50 shea butter along withglycerin, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, Prunus armeniaca(apricot) kernel oil, acrylates copolymer, sodium lauryl sulfate,lauramidopropyl betaine, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, glycerin, orpolyquaternium-7, or any combination thereof. These various combinationof ingredients can be used to promote skin moisturization, smooth skin,renew skin, and/or cleanse skin. In a particular solution to theaforementioned problems, it was discovered that a combination of water,glycerin, isododecane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butyrospermumparkii (shea butter), dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, and stearic acid canbe used in an emulsion lotion. Preferably, the emulsion lotion includes65 wt. % to 75 wt. % water, 5 wt. % to 10 wt. % glycerin, 5 wt. % to 10wt. % isododecane, 1 wt. % to 3 wt. % caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1wt. % to 3 wt. % Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), 1 wt. % to 3 wt. %dimethicone, 1 wt. % to 3 wt. % cetyl alcohol, and 0.5 to 3 wt. %stearic acid. It was also discovered that a combination of water,caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter),Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, cetyl alcohol, pentylene glycol,stearyl alcohol, glycerin, Mangifera indicia (mango) seed butter, andPrunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil can be used in an emulsion cream.Preferably, the emulsion cream includes 55 wt. % to 65 wt. % water, 3wt. % to 7 wt. % caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3 wt. % to 7 wt. %Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), 3 wt. % to 7 wt. % Helianthus annuus(sunflower) seed oil, 1 wt. % to 5 wt. % cetyl alcohol, 1 wt. % to 5 wt.% pentylene glycol, 1 wt. % to 5 wt. % stearyl alcohol, 1 wt. % to 5 wt.% glycerin, 1 wt. % to 3 wt. % Mangifera indicia (mango) seed butter,and 1 wt. % to 3 wt. % Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil. It wasfurther discovered that a combination of water, hydrated silica, sodiumlaureth sulfate, cellulose, acrylates copolymer, triethanolamine,propanediol, glycerin, and PEG-50 shea butter can be used in a bodyscrub or exfoliating formulation. Preferably, the body scrub orexfoliating formulation includes 65 wt. % to 75 wt. % water, 5 wt. % to10 wt. % hydrated silica, 3 wt. % to 7 wt. % sodium laureth sulfate, 3wt. % to 7 wt. % cellulose, 1 wt. % to 3 wt. % acrylates copolymer, 1wt. % to 3 wt. % triethanolamine, 0.5 wt. % to 3 wt. % propanediol, 0.5wt. % to 3 wt. % glycerin, and 0.01 wt. % to 1 wt. % PEG-50 shea butter.It was also discovered that a combination of water, sodium laurylsulfate, glycerin, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, polysorbate 20,lauramidopropyl betaine, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, sodiumchloride, PEG-12 dimethicone, polyquaternium-7, and PEG-50 shea buttercan be used in a wash/cleansing formulation used to wash or rinse theskin. Preferably, the wash/cleansing formulation includes 55 wt. % to 70wt. % water, 10 wt. % to 15 wt. % sodium lauryl sulfate, 3 wt. % to 7wt. % glycerin, 3 wt. % to 7 wt. % sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, 3 wt. %to 7 wt. % polysorbate 20, 3 wt. % to 7 wt. % lauramidopropyl betaine, 1wt. % to 3 wt. % PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, 1 wt. % to 3 wt.% sodium chloride, 0.5 wt. % to 3 wt. % PEG-12 dimethicone, 0.01 wt. %to 1 wt. % polyquaternium-7, and 0.0001 wt. % to 1 wt. % PEG-50 sheabutter.

In some aspects, there is disclosed a topical composition. In someaspects, the topical composition includes any one of, any combinationof, or all of glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), PEG-50 sheabutter, sodium laureth sulfate, and sodium lauryl sulfate. In someinstances, the composition includes glycerin and one or both ofButyrospermum parkii (shea butter) and a combination of PEG-50 sheabutter and one or more of sodium laureth sulfate and sodium laurylsulfate. In some instances, the composition includes Helianthus annuus(sunflower) seed oil and Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil. In someinstances, the composition includes acrylates copolymer. In someinstances, the composition includes sodium lauryl sulfate,lauramidopropyl betaine, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, glycerin, andpolyquaternium-7.

The amounts of the ingredients within the composition can vary (e.g.,amounts can be as low as 0.000001% to as high as 98% w/w or any rangetherein). In some aspects, the topical composition includes 0.1 to 15%w/w of glycerin and one or both of 1 to 10% w/w of Butyrospermum parkii(shea butter) and a combination of 0.0001 to 5% w/w of PEG-50 sheabutter and one or both of 1 to 20% w/w of sodium laureth sulfate and 1to 20% w/w of sodium lauryl sulfate. In some aspects, the topicalcomposition includes 0.01 to 10% w/w of Helianthus annuus (sunflower)seed oil and 0.1 to 5% w/w of Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil. Insome aspects, the topical composition includes 0.1 to 5% w/w ofacrylates copolymer. In some aspects, the topical composition includes 1to 20% w/w of sodium lauryl sulfate, 1 to 10% w/w of lauramidopropylbetaine, 1 to 10% w/w of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, 1 to 10% w/w ofglycerin, and 0.01 to 3% w/w of polyquaternium-7.

In some instances, the topical composition includes water. In someinstances, the composition includes 50 to 80% w/w of water. In someinstances, the topical composition is an emulsion, serum, gel, gelemulsion, or gel serum. In some instances, the topical composition is alotion, cream, butter, wash, or scrub.

In some instances, the topical composition is capable of promotingmoisturization, smoothing skin, renewing skin, and/or cleansing skin.

The topical compositions disclosed herein may further comprise one ormore ingredients described herein. For example, the composition maycomprise one or more additional ingredients selected from one or moreconditioning agents, moisturizing agents, pH adjusters, structuringagents, inorganic salts, and preservatives.

Methods of use for the compositions disclosed herein are also disclosed.In some aspects, a method is disclosed of improving a condition orappearance of skin, comprising applying any one of the compositionsdisclosed herein to skin in need thereof. In one aspect, any one of thecompositions disclosed herein are applied to skin and the composition isleft on the skin, or alternatively removed from the skin after a periodof time.

In another aspect, the compositions disclosed herein are used to promotemoisturization. In another aspect, the compositions disclosed here areused to smooth skin. In another aspect, the compositions disclosed hereare used to renew skin. In another aspect, the compositions disclosedhere are used to cleanse skin. In some instances, the methods disclosedherein comprise applying any one of the composition disclosed herein toskin.

In some aspects, the compositions disclosed herein are used to increasemoisturization of the skin by increasing hydration of the skin. In someinstances, the composition is topically applied to dry skin. In someinstances, the dry skin is moisturized. In some instances, the dry skinis moisturized by an increase in hydration of the skin. In someinstances, the composition is used to increase skin hydration. In someinstances, skin hydration is increased within 15 minutes of topicalapplication of the composition to the skin. In some instances, topicalapplication of the composition increases skin hydration for at least 24hours after topical application of the composition to the skin. In someinstances, the skin is dry skin.

In particular aspects, the compositions of the present invention areformulated as a topical skin composition. The composition can have adermatologically acceptable vehicle or carrier for the compounds andextracts. The composition can further include a moisturizing agent or ahumectant, a surfactant, a silicone containing compounds, a UV agent, anoil, and/or other ingredients identified in this specification or thoseknown in the art. The composition can be a lotion, cream, body butter,mask, scrub, wash, gel, serum, emulsion (e.g., oil-in-water,water-in-oil, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone,water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-silicone,etc.), solutions (e.g., aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solutions), anhydrousbases (e.g., lipstick or a powder), ointments, milk, paste, aerosol,solid forms, eye jellies, gel serums, gel emulsions, etc. Thecomposition can be formulated for topical skin application at least 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or more times a day during use. In other aspects ofthe present invention, compositions can be storage stable or colorstable, or both. It is also contemplated that the viscosity of thecomposition can be selected to achieve a desired result, e.g., dependingon the type of composition desired, the viscosity of such compositioncan be from about 1 cps to well over 1 million cps or any range orinteger derivable therein (e.g., 2 cps, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30,40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900,1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 20000,30000, 40000, 50000, 60000, 70000, 80000, 90000, 100000, 200000, 300000,400000, 500000, 600000, 700000, 800000, 900000, 1000000, 2000000,3000000, 4000000, 5000000, 10000000, cps, etc., as measured on aBrookfield Viscometer using a TC spindle at 2.5 rpm at 25° C.).

The compositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6 toabout 9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,11, 12, 13, or 14. The compositions can include a triglyceride.Non-limiting examples include small, medium, and large chaintriglycerides. In certain aspects, the triglyceride is a medium chaintriglyceride (e.g., caprylic capric triglyceride). The compositions canalso include preservatives. Non-limiting examples of preservativesinclude phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propylparaben, or any mixturethereof. In some embodiments, the composition is paraben-free.

Compositions of the present invention can have UVA and UVB absorptionproperties. The compositions can have an sun protection factor (SPF) of2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45,50, 55, 60, or more, or any integer or derivative therein. Thecompositions can be sunscreen lotions, sprays, or creams.

The compositions of the present invention can also include any one of,any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients:water, a chelating agent, a moisturizing agent, a preservative, athickening agent, a silicone containing compound, an essential oil, astructuring agent, a vitamin, a pharmaceutical ingredient, or anantioxidant, or any combination of such ingredients or mixtures of suchingredients. In certain aspects, the composition can include at leasttwo, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, or all of theseadditional ingredients identified in the previous sentence. Non-limitingexamples of these additional ingredients are identified throughout thisspecification and are incorporated into this section by reference. Theamounts of such ingredients can range from 0.0001% to 99.9% by weight orvolume of the composition, or any integer or range in between asdisclosed in other sections of this specification, which areincorporated into this paragraph by reference.

Kits that include the compositions of the present invention are alsocontemplated. In certain embodiments, the composition is comprised in acontainer. The container can be a bottle, dispenser, or package. Thecontainer can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition. Incertain aspects, the compositions is dispensed in a spray, mist, dollop,or liquid. The container can include indicia on its surface. The indiciacan be a word, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

It is also contemplated that the compositions disclosed throughout thisspecification can be used as a leave-on or rinse-off composition. By wayof example, a leave-on composition can be one that is topically appliedto skin and remains on the skin for a period of time (e.g., at least 5,6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, or 30 minutes, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24 hours,or overnight or throughout the day). Alternatively, a rinse-offcomposition can be a product that is intended to be applied to the skinand then removed or rinsed from the skin (e.g., with water) within aperiod of time such as less than 5, 4, 3, 2, or 1 minute. An example ofa rinse off composition can be a skin cleanser, shampoo, conditioner, orsoap. An example of a leave-on composition can be a skin moisturizer,sunscreen, mask, overnight cream, or a day cream.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In one embodiment, compositions of the present invention can bepharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant or can have pleasant tactileproperties. “Pharmaceutically elegant,” “cosmetically elegant,” and/or“pleasant tactile properties” describes a composition that hasparticular tactile properties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g.,compositions that are not too watery or greasy, compositions that have asilky texture, compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.).Pharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant can also relate to thecreaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to the moistureretaining properties of the composition.

Also contemplated is a product comprising a composition of the presentinvention. In non-limiting aspects, the product can be a cosmeticproduct. The cosmetic product can be those described in other sectionsof this specification or those known to a person of skill in the art.Non-limiting examples of products include a moisturizer, a cream, alotion, a skin softener, a gel, a wash, a body butter, a scrub, afoundation, a night cream, a lipstick, a cleanser, a toner, a sunscreen,a mask, an anti-aging product, a deodorant, an antiperspirant, aperfume, a cologne, etc.

Also disclosed are the following Embodiments 1 to 20 of the presentinvention. Embodiment 1 is a method of treating skin, the methodcomprising topically applying to the skin an effective amount of atopical composition comprising glycerin and one or both of:Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter); and a combination of PEG-50 sheabutter and one or both of sodium laureth sulfate and sodium laurylsulfate, wherein the skin is treated. Embodiment 2 is the method ofEmbodiment 1, wherein the composition comprises 0.1 to 15% w/w ofglycerin and one or both of: 1 to 10% w/w of Butyrospermum parkii (sheabutter); and a combination of 0.0001 to 5% w/w of PEG-50 shea butter andone or both of 1 to 20% w/w of sodium laureth sulfate and 1 to 20% w/wof sodium lauryl sulfate. Embodiment 3 is the method of Embodiment 1,wherein the composition further comprises Helianthus annuus (sunflower)seed oil and Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil. Embodiment 4 is themethod of Embodiment 3, wherein the composition comprises 0.01 to 10%w/w of Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil and 0.1 to 5% w/w ofPrunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil. Embodiment 5 is the method ofEmbodiment 1, wherein the composition further comprises acrylatescopolymer. Embodiment 6 is the method of Embodiment 5, wherein thecomposition comprises 0.1 to 5% w/w of acrylates copolymer. Embodiment 7is the method of Embodiment 1, wherein the composition comprises PEG-50shea butter and sodium lauryl sulfate and further compriseslauramidopropyl betaine, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, andpolyquaternium-7. Embodiment 8 is the method of Embodiment 7, whereinthe composition comprises 0.0001 to 5% w/w of PEG-50 shea butter, 1 to20% w/w of sodium lauryl sulfate, 1 to 10% w/w of lauramidopropylbetaine, 1 to 10% w/w of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and 0.01 to 3%w/w of polyquaternium-7. Embodiment 9 is the method of any ofEmbodiments 1 to 8, wherein an effective amount of the topicalcomposition promotes moisturization, smooths skin, renews skin, and/orcleanses skin. Embodiment 10 is the method of any of Embodiments 1 to 9,wherein the topical composition is an emulsion, serum, gel, gelemulsion, or gel serum. Embodiment 11 is a topical compositioncomprising glycerin and one or both of: Butyrospermum parkii (sheabutter); and a combination of PEG-50 shea butter and one or both ofsodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate. Embodiment 12 is thetopical composition of Embodiment 11, comprising 0.1 to 15% w/w ofglycerin and one or both of: 1 to 10% w/w of Butyrospermum parkii (sheabutter); and a combination of 0.0001 to 5% w/w of PEG-50 shea butter andone or both of 1 to 20% w/w of sodium laureth sulfate and 1 to 20% w/wof sodium lauryl sulfate. Embodiment 13 is the topical composition ofEmbodiment 11, further comprising Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oiland Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil. Embodiment 14 is the topicalcomposition of Embodiment 13, comprising 0.01 to 10% w/w of Helianthusannuus (sunflower) seed oil and 0.1 to 5% w/w of Prunus armeniaca(apricot) kernel oil. Embodiment 15 is the topical composition ofEmbodiment 11, further comprising acrylates copolymer. Embodiment 16 isthe topical composition of Embodiment 15, comprising 0.1 to 5% w/w ofacrylates copolymer. Embodiment 17 is the topical composition ofEmbodiment 11, comprising PEG-50 shea butter and sodium lauryl sulfateand further comprising lauramidopropyl betaine, sodium methyl cocoyltaurate, and polyquaternium-7. Embodiment 18 is the topical compositionof Embodiment 17, comprising 0.0001 to 5% w/w of PEG-50 shea butter, 1to 20% w/w of sodium lauryl sulfate, 1 to 10% w/w of lauramidopropylbetaine, 1 to 10% w/w of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and 0.01 to 3%w/w of polyquaternium-7. Embodiment 19 is the topical composition of anyof Embodiments 11 to 18, wherein the topical composition is effectivefor promoting moisturization, smoothing skin, renewing skin, and/orcleansing skin. Embodiment 20 is the topical composition of any ofEmbodiments 11 to 19, wherein the topical composition is an emulsion,serum, gel, gel emulsion, or gel serum.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of lips or keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition”includes compositions suitable for topical application on skin and/orkeratinous tissue. Such compositions are typicallydermatologically-acceptable in that they do not have undue toxicity,incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like, whenapplied to skin and/or keratinous tissue. Topical skin care compositionsof the present invention can have a selected viscosity to avoidsignificant dripping or pooling after application to skin and/orkeratinous tissue.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, lips, skin, hair, and nails.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art. In one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The term “substantially” and its variations are refers to ranges within10%, within 5%, within 1%, or within 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting” or “reducing” or any variation of these termsincludes any measurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve adesired result. The terms “promote” or “increase” or any variation ofthese terms includes any measurable increase, such as a measurableincrease of a protein or molecule (e.g., matrix proteins such asfibronectin, laminin, collagen, or elastin or molecules such ashyaluronic acid) to achieve a desired result.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

The use of the word “a” or “an” when used in conjunction with the terms“comprising,” “including,” “having,” or “containing,” or any variationsof these terms, in the claims and/or the specification may mean “one,”but it is also consistent with the meaning of “one or more,” “at leastone,” and “one or more than one.”

As used in this specification and claim(s), the words “comprising” (andany form of comprising, such as “comprise” and “comprises”), “having”(and any form of having, such as “have” and “has”), “including” (and anyform of including, such as “includes” and “include”) or “containing”(and any form of containing, such as “contains” and “contain”) areinclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional, unrecitedelements or method steps.

The compositions and methods for their use can “comprise,” “consistessentially of,” or “consist of” any of the ingredients or stepsdisclosed throughout the specification. With respect to the phrase“consisting essentially of,” a basic and novel property of thecompositions and methods of the present invention is the ability tomoisturize the skin, smooth skin, renew skin, and/or cleanse skin.

Other objects, features, and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

As noted above, several of the unique aspects of the present inventionare to combine in a topical cosmetic composition Butyrospermum parkii(shea butter) and/or PEG-50 shea butter, or glycerin, Helianthus annuus(sunflower) seed oil, and Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil, oracrylates copolymer, or including sodium lauryl sulfate, lauramidopropylbetaine, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, glycerin, and polyquaternium-7.These combinations can be used to create topical skin compositions thatpromote moisturization, smooth skin, renew skin, and/or cleanse skin.

The following subsections describe non-limiting aspects of the presentinvention in further detail.

A particular composition of the present invention is designed to work asa topical composition. The composition relies on a unique combination ofany one of, any combination of, or all of Butyrospermum parkii (sheabutter), PEG-0 shea butter, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil,Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil, acrylates copolymer, sodiumlauryl sulfate, lauramidopropyl betaine, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,glycerin, and polyquaternium-7. These combinations can be used to createtopical skin compositions that promote moisturization, smooth skin,renew skin, and/or cleanse skin. Non-limiting examples of suchcompositions are provided in Example 1, Tables 2 through 6.

Some compositions disclosed herein can be applied to the skin and remainon the skin for a period of time (e.g., at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10, 20,30, or 60 minutes or more). After which, the composition, if needed, canbe rinsed from the skin or peeled from the skin. Some compositionsdisclosed herein can be applied to the skin and immediately rinsed fromthe skin. Some compositions disclosed herein can be applied to the skinand absorbed at least in part by the skin.

These and other non-limiting aspects of the present invention aredescribed in the following sections.

A. Active Ingredients

The present invention is premised on a determination that a combinationof one or more of active ingredients—Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter),PEG-50 shea butter, glycerin, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil,Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil, acrylates copolymer, or thecombination of sodium lauryl sulfate, lauramidopropyl betaine, sodiummethyl cocoyl taurate, glycerin, and polyquaternium-7—can be used topromote moisturization, smooth skin, renew skin, and/or cleanse skin.

This combination of ingredients can be used in different products totreat various skin conditions. By way of non-limiting examples, thecombination of ingredients can be formulated in an emulsion (e.g. oil inwater, water in oil), a gel, a serum, a gel emulsion, a gel serum, alotion, a mask, a scrub, a wash, a cream, or a body butter.

Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) is a slightly yellowish or ivorycolored natural fat extracted from the seed of the African shea tree,Butyrospermum parkii. It can be used as a moisturizer and salve. In someinstances, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) is commercially available.In some instances, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) can be supplied byHallStar Company under the tradename Shea Butter—Ultra Refined.

PEG-50 shea butter is a water soluble derivative of shea butter. In someinstances, PEG-50 shea butter is commercially available from VantageSpecialty Ingredients under the trade name LIPONATE® SB-50. In someaspects, PEG-50 shea butter is capable of aiding in skin conditioning,softening, and emolliency. In some aspects, the PEG-50 shea butter aidsin increasing foaming. In some aspects, the PEG-50 shea butter does notrequire heat for addition to a composition; thus, it can be added to acomposition through a cold process.

Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil is an oil from sunflower seeds.In some instances, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil iscommercially available. In some instances, Helianthus annuus (sunflower)seed oil can be supplied by Floratech under the tradename FLORASUN® 90.

Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil is an oil from apricot kernels. Insome instances, Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil is commerciallyavailable. In some instances, Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil canbe supplied by Arista Industries under the tradename Apricot Kernel Oil.

In some instances, glycerin, acrylates copolymer, sodium lauryl sulfate,lauramidopropyl betaine, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, andpolyquaternium-7 are commercially available individually or in anycombination thereof. In some instances, glycerin can be supplied byCargill under the tradename USP Grade Kosher Glycerin. In someinstances, acrylates copolymer can be supplied by Lubrizol and in someinstances can be supplied under the tradename Aqua SF-1 Polymer. In someinstances, sodium lauryl sulfate can be supplied by BASF under thetradename Standapol WAQ-LCK. In some instances, lauramidopropyl betainecan be supplied by Colonial Chemical under the tradename ColaTeric LMB.In some instances, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate can be supplied byInnospec under the tradename Pureact WS Conc. In some instances,polyquaternium-7 can be supplied by Lubrizol under the tradename Merquat550PR.

The extracts described herein can be extracts made through extractionmethods known in the art and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examplesof extraction methods include the use of liquid-liquid extraction, solidphase extraction, aqueous extraction, ethyl acetate, alcohol, acetone,oil, supercritical carbon dioxide, heat, pressure, pressure dropextraction, ultrasonic extraction, etc. Extracts can be a liquid, solid,dried liquid, re-suspended solid, etc.

B. Amounts of Ingredients

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude any amount of the ingredients discussed in this specification.The compositions can also include any number of combinations ofadditional ingredients described throughout this specification (e.g.,pigments, or additional cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredients). Theconcentrations of the any ingredient within the compositions can vary.In non-limiting embodiments, for example, the compositions can comprise,consisting essentially of, or consist of, in their final form, forexample, at least about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%,0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%,0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%,0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%,0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%,0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%,0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%,0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%,0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%,0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%,0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%,0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%,0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%,0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%,0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%,0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.0825%,0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%,0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%,0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%,0.0550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%,0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%,0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%,1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%,3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%,4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%,5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%,6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%,7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%,9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%,13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%,27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%,90%, 95%, or 99% or any range derivable therein, of at least one of theingredients that are mentioned throughout the specification and claims.In non-limiting aspects, the percentage can be calculated by weight orvolume of the total composition. A person of ordinary skill in the artwould understand that the concentrations can vary depending on theaddition, substitution, and/or subtraction of ingredients in a givencomposition.

C. Vehicles

The compositions of the present invention can include or be incorporatedinto all types of vehicles and carriers. The vehicle or carrier can be apharmaceutically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle or carrier.Non-limiting examples of vehicles or carriers include water, glycerin,alcohol, oil, a silicon containing compound, a silicone compound, andwax. Variations and other appropriate vehicles will be apparent to theskilled artisan and are appropriate for use in the present invention. Incertain aspects, the concentrations and combinations of the compounds,ingredients, and agents can be selected in such a way that thecombinations are chemically compatible and do not form complexes whichprecipitate from the finished product.

D. Structure

The compositions of the present invention can be structured orformulated into a variety of different forms. Non-limiting examplesinclude emulsions (e.g., water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water,oil-in-water, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone, oil-in-water-in-oil,oil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions), creams, lotions, solutions (bothaqueous and hydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks andpowders), gels, masks, scrubs, body butters, peels, and ointments.Variations and other structures will be apparent to the skilled artisanand are appropriate for use in the present invention.

E. Additional Ingredients

In addition to the combination of ingredients disclosed by theinventors, the compositions can also include additional ingredients suchas cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceutical active ingredients.Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredients are described inthe following subsections.

1. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2004and 2008) describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrance agents (artificial andnatural; e.g., gluconic acid, phenoxyethanol, and triethanolamine), dyesand color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titaniumdioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no.17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellowno. 11), flavoring agents/aroma agents (e.g., Stevia rebaudiana(sweetleaf) extract, and menthol), adsorbents, lubricants, solvents,moisturizers (including, e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers,occlusive agents, and agents that affect the natural moisturizationmechanisms of the skin), water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical andchemical absorbers such as para-aminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) andcorresponding PABA derivatives, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.),essential oils, vitamins (e.g., A, B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals(e.g., zinc, calcium and selenium), anti-irritants (e.g., steroids andnon-steroidal anti-inflammatories), botanical extracts (e.g., Aloe vera,chamomile, cucumber extract, Ginkgo biloba, ginseng, and rosemary),anti-microbial agents, antioxidants (e.g., BHT and tocopherol),chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA),preservatives (e.g., methylparaben and propylparaben), pH adjusters(e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid), absorbents (e.g., aluminumstarch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch, oat starch, cyclodextrin,talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching and lightening agents (e.g.,hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate), humectants (e.g., sorbitol, urea,methyl gluceth-20, saccharide isomerate, and mannitol), exfoliants,waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxide stearate), skinconditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin, bisabolol,ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum-1,ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, hydrogenated polydecene,octyldodecyl oleate, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate). Non-limitingexamples of some of these ingredients are provided in the followingsubsections.

a. UV Absorption and/or Reflecting Agents

UV absorption and/or reflecting agents that can be used in combinationwith the compositions of the present invention include chemical andphysical sunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that canbe used include para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glycerylPABA, amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA,ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxycinnamate, cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate,ethyl diisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate andethyl methoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethylsalicylate, benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzylsalicylate, etc.), anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate,octisalate, dibenzoylmethane derivatives (e.g., avobenzone),octocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloyl trioleate, glycerylaminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone, ethylhexyl triazone,dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonate polysiloxane,terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bisbenzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Non-limiting examples ofphysical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc, petrolatum and metal oxides(e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).

b. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitinsulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerolpolymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol,maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid,potassium PCA, propylene glycol, saccharide isomerate, sodiumglucuronate, sodium PCA, sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, andxylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,alanine, algae extract, Aloe barbadensis, Aloe barbadensis extract, Aloebarbadensis gel, Althea officinalis extract, apricot (Prunus armeniaca)kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, Arnica montana extract,aspartic acid, avocado (Persea gratissima) oil, barrier sphingolipids,butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, birch (Betulaalba) bark extract, borage (Borago officinalis) extract, butcherbroom(Ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, Calendula officinalisextract, Calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (Euphorbia cerifera) wax,canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamom (Elettariacardamomum) oil, carnauba (Copernicia cerifera) wax, carrot (Daucuscarota sativa) oil, castor (Ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20,ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile(Anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (Salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(Theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (Cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (Zea mays) oil,fatty acids, decyl oleate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyladipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate,DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, Eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, Geraniummaculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid,glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glycerylhydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(Vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (Corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(Corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, hybridsafflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, isocetylstearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid,isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (Jasminumofficinale) oil, jojoba (Buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (Aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate,lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (Citrus medicalimonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, Macadamia ternifolia nutoil, maltitol, matricaria (Chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucosesesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierellaoil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate,neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecylmyristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octylpalmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (Oleaeuropaea) oil, orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (Elaeisguineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethylether, paraffin, PCA, peach (Prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (Arachishypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate,PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glycerylstearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate,PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG-40stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate,pentadecalactone, peppermint (Mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum,phospholipids, plankton extract, polyamino sugar condensate,polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20,polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85,potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, propylene glycol, propyleneglycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, propyleneglycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol laurate, propylene glycolstearate, propylene glycol stearate SE, PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate,retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (Oryza sativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary(Rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil, safflower (Carthamus tinctorius)oil, sage (Salvia officinalis) oil, sandalwood (Santalum album) oil,serine, serum protein, sesame (Sesamum indicum) oil, shea butter(Butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodiumhyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodium palmitate, sodium PCA, sodiumpolyglutamate, soluble collagen, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate,sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol,soybean (Glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids, squalane, squalene,stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxy dimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearyl glycyrrhetinate,stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seedoil, sweet almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil, synthetic beeswax,tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tribehenin,tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate, triethanolamine, tristearin,urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat (Triticum vulgare) germ oil,and ylang ylang (Cananga odorata) oil.

c. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCl, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopherylmethylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate,ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters ofascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters,hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

d. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agent, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limitingexamples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmiticacid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethyleneoxide units, and mixtures thereof.

e. Emulsifiers

In certain aspects of the present invention, the compositions do notinclude an emulsifier. In other aspects, however, the compositions caninclude one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacialtension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of anemulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, andzwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos.5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include estersof glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, estersof sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers,esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols,alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acidamides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate,polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20),polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21,ceteareth-20, cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, C12-13 pareth-3,PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, PPG-5-ceteth-20,bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetylphosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol,arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

f. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In certain aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes asilicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be usedin the context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

g. Exfoliating Agent

Exfoliating agents include ingredients that remove dead skin cells onthe skin's outer surface. These agents may act through mechanical,chemical, and/or other means. Non-limiting examples of mechanicalexfoliating agents include abrasives such as pumice, silica, cloth,paper, shells, beads, solid crystals, solid polymers, etc. Non-limitingexamples of chemical exfoliating agents include acids and enzymeexfoliants. Acids that can be used as exfoliating agents include, butare not limited to, glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, alphahydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, etc. Other exfoliating agents knownto those of skill in the art are also contemplated as being usefulwithin the context of the present invention.

h. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to thoseof skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e., extractionby using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing).When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate(i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless,but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils areinsoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils(vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristicsfound in essential oils include boiling points that vary from about 160°to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

i. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition.Thickeners includes those that can increase the viscosity of acomposition without substantially modifying the efficacy of the activeingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increase thestability of the compositions of the present invention. In certainaspects of the present invention, thickeners include hydrogenatedpolyisobutene, trihydroxystearin, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vpcopolymer, or a mixture of them.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC10-C30 straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C10-C30 straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

j. Preservatives

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the contextof the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives suchas polyquaternium-1 and benzalkonium halides (e.g., benzalkoniumchloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g.,methylparabens and propylparabens), phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol,chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid, thimerosal or combinations thereof.

2. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical active agents are also contemplated as being useful withthe compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples ofpharmaceutical active agents include anti-acne agents, agents used totreat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines,anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatorydrugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-canceractives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants,antipruritics, antip soriatic agents, anti seborrheic agents,biologically active proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents,cauterizing agents, depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rashtreatment agents, enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growthretardants including DFMO and its salts and analogs, hemostatics,kerotolytics, canker sore treatment agents, cold sore treatment agents,dental and periodontal treatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skinprotectant/barrier agents, steroids including hormones andcorticosteroids, sunburn treatment agents, sunscreens, transdermalactives, nasal actives, vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, woundtreatment agents, wound healing agents, etc.

F. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, compositions of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition.In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal,laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of thecomposition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, an aerosol, aliquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump,or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for employingthe kit components as well the use of any other compositions included inthe container. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate preferred embodimentsof the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill in the artthat the techniques disclosed in the examples which follow representtechniques discovered by the inventor to function well in the practiceof the invention, and thus can be considered to constitute preferredmodes for its practice. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

All of the compositions and methods disclosed and claimed herein can bemade and executed without undue experimentation in light of the presentdisclosure. While the compositions and methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will be apparent tothose of skill in the art that variations may be applied to thecompositions and methods and in the steps or in the sequence of steps ofthe method described herein without departing from the concept, spirit,and scope of the invention. More specifically, it will be apparent thatcertain agents which are both chemically and physiologically related maybe substituted for the agents described herein while the same or similarresults would be achieved. All such similar substitutes andmodifications apparent to those skilled in the art are deemed to bewithin the spirit, scope and concept of the invention as defined by theappended claims.

Example 1 Clinical Study

In a clinical study, a composition containing Butyrospermum parkii (sheabutter), Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, Prunus armeniaca(apricot) kernel oil, and glycerin was surprisingly found to increaseskin hydration within 15 minutes or less after topical application andto maintain increased hydration for at least 24 hours. Specifically, acrème composition of Table 3 increased skin hydration over 40% withinfifteen (15) minutes of topically application. See Table 1. Twenty-fourhours (24) after topical application, skin hydration levels were stillover 12% higher than baseline measurements taken before topicalapplication. See Table 1. These findings were statistically significant(p-value over baseline of <0.001).

Materials/Methods:

Twenty-five (25) male and female subjects received a neutral soap bar touse for cleansing their forearms (e.g., bathing) for the washout periodand study period. Subjects were given specific instructions prohibitingthe use of all personal care products (e.g., lotions, creams, serums),on the test site (volar surface of forearms) for the washout period andentire study duration except for those provided by the testing facility.

Trained staff marked two (2) test sites on the volar surfaces of theforearms. Each test site was 4 cm×4 cm. Test sites were placed centrallyon the volar forearms (at least 2 cm from the wrist and at least 2 cmfrom elbow). Per randomization code, one served as the treated site andthe other served as the control (untreated).

Subjects equilibrated for a minimum of 15 minutes in a room maintainedat approximately 20-24° C. and approximately 30%-50% relative humidity.During this time, subjects were instructed to keep their volar forearmsuncovered/exposed. Subjects were not allowed to cover, wet, or wipetheir volar forearms until measurements are complete.

Following equilibration, the subjects had Baseline (pre-treatment) andSkin hydration measurements by a Corneometer at all test sites.Following baseline measurements, approximately 2 mg/cm′ of the testproduct was applied to the designated test sites. At 15 minutespost-treatment (±2 minutes), the 15 Minute (±2 minutes) (post-treatment)and Skin hydration measurements by Corneometer at all test sites wereobtained.

Subjects were dismissed from the testing facility and informed to returnapproximately 23 hours and 45 minutes (±30 minutes) post-treatment.Subjects were instructed not to wet (e.g., shower, bathe) their forearmsor use any personal care products on the test sites. Upon their return,subjects equilibrated for a minimum of fifteen (15) minutes in a roommaintained at approximately 20-24° C. and 30%-50% relative humidity.Temperature and humidity were recorded during subject testing. Followingequilibration, subjects had 24 Hour (±30 minutes) (post-treatment) andSkin hydration measurements by Corneometer at all test sites.

Results:

TABLE 1 Mean Mean % Mean (± change change p-value Standard from fromp-value % of (Mean Deviation Baseline Baseline (from Subject VariableChange vs. Time Point (SD)) (BL) (BL) BL) Improved % Mean Untreated)Baseline 35.49 ± 2.90 15 Minute 50.40 ± 6.32 14.92 ± 5.11 42.03%*<0.001* 100.00%* 41.99%* <0.001* 24 Hour 39.84 ± 5.23  4.35 ± 5.2212.27%* <0.001* 100.00%* 12.16%* <0.001* Positive mean percent changevalues indicate an improvement. *Indicates statistical significance (p ≤0.05).

At baseline, there was no statistically significant differences in skinhydration measurement between the untreated and treated sites. Untreatedmeasurements are not shown. Statistically significant increases(improvements) in skin hydration measurements at the 15 minutes and 24hour post-treatment intervals were seen when compared to baseline. Whencomparing the treated vs. untreated sites, the treated sitesdemonstrated greater improvements in skin hydration values at both the15 minute and 24 hour post-treatment intervals as well.

Example 2

Formulations having the ingredients disclosed herein were prepared astopical skin compositions. The formulation in Table 2 is an example of atopical skin composition prepared as an emulsion lotion that has beenshown to moisturize skin. The formulation in Table 3 is an example of atopical skin composition prepared as an emulsion cream that has beenshown to moisturize skin. The formulation in Table 4 and Table 6 is anexample of a topical skin composition prepared as a scrub that has beenshown to exfoliate skin. The formulation in Table 5 is an example of atopical skin composition prepared as a wash that has been shown tocleanses skin.

TABLE 2{circumflex over ( )} % Concentration Ingredient (by weight)Water 71 Glycerin 7 Isododecane 6 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 2Butyrospermum parkii 2 (shea) butter Dimethicone 2 Cetyl alcohol 2Stearic acid 1 Propanediol 0.9 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Arachidyl alcohol 0.8Hydroxyethyl aerylate/ 0.6 Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerBehenyl alcohol 0.4 Propylene Glycol (optional) 0.4 Isohexadecane 0.4Caprylyl glycol 0.4 Triethanolamine 0.4 Arachidyl glucoside 0.2Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl 0.2 acrylate crosspolymer Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2Caprylhydroxamic acid 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.1 Tocopheryl acetate 0.1Excipients* q.s. {circumflex over ( )}Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition or ingredients that provide benefits to skin. *Excipientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is at least 40% w/w, andpreferably between 60 to 80% w/w.

TABLE 3{circumflex over ( )} % Concentration Ingredient (by weight)Water 60 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 5 Butyrospermum parkii 4 (shea)butter Helianthus annuus 4 (sunflower) seed oil Cetyl alcohol 3Pentylene glycol 3 Stearyl alcohol 3 Glycerin 3 Mangifera indica 2(mango) seed butter Prunus armeniaca 2 (apricot) kernel oil Glycerylstearate 2 PEG-100 stearate 1 Beeswax 1 Ceteareth-33 0.8 Cetearylolivate (optional) 0.6 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Betaine 0.5 Stearic acid 0.5Dimethicone 0.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.4 Sorbitan olivate (optional) 0.4Xanthan gum 0.5 Sodium polyacrylate 0.4 Chlorphenesin 0.3 Potassiumstearate 0.2 Biosaccharide gum-1 0.4 Disodium EDTA 0.1 Tocopherylacetate 0.1 Triethanolamine 0.07 Excipients* q.s. {circumflex over( )}Formulation can be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beakerunder heat 70-75° C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation canbe cooled to standing room temperature (20-25° C.). Further, and ifdesired, additional ingredients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition or ingredients that providebenefits to skin. *Excipients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isabove at least 40% w/w, and preferably between 50 to 70% w/w.

TABLE 4{circumflex over ( )} % Concentration Ingredient (by weight)Water 72 Hydrated silica 8 Sodium laureth sulfate 6 Cellulose 4Acrylates copolymer 2 Triethanolamine 2 Propanediol 1 Glycerin 1Caprylyl glycol 0.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.5 Titanium dioxide 0.5Helianthus annuus 0.5 (sunflower) seed oil Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2Caprylhydroxamic acid 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.1 PEG-50 shea butter 0.1Citric acid 0.05 Opuntia tuna 0.0005 fruit extract (optional)Excipients* q.s. {circumflex over ( )}Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition or ingredients that provide benefits to skin. *Excipientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is above at least 40% w/w, andpreferably between 60 to 80% w/w.

TABLE 5{circumflex over ( )} % Concentration Ingredient (by weight)Water 63 Sodium lauryl sulfate 12 Glycerin 5 Sodium methyl cocoyltaurate 5 Polysorbate 20 4 Lauramidopropyl betaine 4 PEG-150pentaerythrityl 2 tetrastearate Sodium chloride 2 PEG-12 dimethicone 1Disodium EDTA 0.2 Citric acid 0.1 Polyquaternium-7 0.1 Hydroxypropylcyclodextrin 0.1 PEG-50 shea butter 0.005 Triethanolamine 0.001 Opuntiatuna 0.0005 fruit extract (optional) Excipients* q.s. {circumflex over( )}Formulation can be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beakerunder heat 70-75° C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation canbe cooled to standing room temperature (20-25° C.). Further, and ifdesired, additional ingredients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition or ingredients that providebenefits to skin. *Excipients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isabove at least 40% w/w, and preferably between 50 to 75% w/w.

TABLE 6{circumflex over ( )} % Concentration Ingredient (by weight)Water 69 Hydrated silica 9 Sodium laureth sulfate 6 Cellulose (optional)5 Triethanolamine 2 Glycerin 1 Carthamus tinctorius 1 (safflower) seedoil Myristic acid 1 PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl 1 Coco/IsostearamidePhenoxyethanol 0.9 Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl 0.9 acrylate crosspolymerPEG-50 shea butter 0.8 Coco-glucoside 0.6 Glyceryl oleate 0.6 Citricacid 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.1 Titanium dioxide 0.1 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.1Opuntia tuna 0.0005 fruit extract (optional) Excipients* q.s.{circumflex over ( )}Formulation can be prepared by mixing theingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. until homogenous.Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing room temperature(20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredients can beadded, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition or ingredients that provide benefits to skin. *Excipientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is above at least 40% w/w, andpreferably between 60 to 80% w/w.

Example 3 Assays

Assays that can be used to determine the efficacy of any one of theingredients or any combination of ingredients or compositions havingsaid combination of ingredients disclosed throughout the specificationand claims can be determined by methods known to those of ordinary skillin the art. The following are non-limiting assays that can be used inthe context of the present invention. It should be recognized that othertesting procedures can be used, including, for example, objective andsubjective procedures.

B16 Pigmentation Assay:

Melanogenesis is the process by which melanocytes produce melanin, anaturally produced pigment that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes.Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial to prevent skin darkening andlighten dark spots associated with aging. This bioassay utilizes B16-F1melanocytes (ATCC), an immortalized mouse melanoma cell line, to analyzethe effect of compounds on melanogenesis. The endpoint of this assay isa spectrophotometric measurement of melanin production and cellularviability. B16-F1 melanocytes, can be cultivated in standard DMEM growthmedium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂ andthen treated with any one of the active ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification for 6 days. Following incubation, melanin secretion ismeasured by absorbance at 405 nm and cellular viability is quantified.

Elastin Stimulation Assay:

Elastin is a connective tissue protein that helps skin resume shapeafter stretching or contracting. Elastin is also an importantload-bearing protein used in places where mechanical energy is requiredto be stored. Elastin is made by linking many soluble tropoelastinprotein molecules, in a reaction catalyzed by lysyl oxidase. Elastinsecretion and elastin fibers can be monitored in cultured humanfibroblasts by staining of cultured human fibroblasts usingimmunofluorescent antibodies directed against elastin.

Laminin and Fibronectin Stimulation Assay:

Laminin and fibronectin are major proteins in the dermal-epidermaljunction (DEJ) (also referred to as the basement membrane). The DEJ islocated between the dermis and the epidermis interlocks formingfingerlike projections called rete ridges. The cells of the epidermisreceive their nutrients from the blood vessels in the dermis. The reteridges increase the surface area of the epidermis that is exposed tothese blood vessels and the needed nutrients. The DEJ provides adhesionof the two tissue compartments and governs the structural integrity ofthe skin. Laminin and fibronectin are two structural glycoproteinslocated in the DEJ. Considered the glue that holds the cells together,laminin and fibronectin are secreted by dermal fibroblasts to helpfacilitate intra- and inter-cellular adhesion of the epidermal calls tothe DEJ. Laminin and fibronectin secretion can be monitored byquantifying laminin and fibronectin in cell supernatants of culturedhuman fibroblasts treated for 3 days with culture medium with or without1.0% final concentration of the test ingredient(s). Followingincubation, laminin and fibronectin content can be measured usingimmunofluorescent antibodies directed against each protein in an enzymelinked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA). Measurements are normalized forcellular metabolic activity, as determined by bioconversion of3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium(MTS).

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:

The prototype ligand of the TNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropiccytokine that plays a central role in inflammation. Increase in itsexpression is associated with an up regulation in pro-inflammatoryactivity. This bioassay can be used to analyze the effect of any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of TNF-α by human epidermal keratinocytes. The endpoint ofthis assay can be a spectrophotometric measurement that reflects thepresence of TNF-α and cellular viability. The assay employs thequantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonalantibody specific for TNF-α has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and any TNF-αpresent is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing away anyunbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specific forTNF-α can be added to the wells. Following a wash to remove any unboundantibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution can be added to the wellsand color develops in proportion to the amount of TNF-α bound in theinitial step using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. Thecolor development can be stopped and the intensity of the color can bemeasured. Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes (CascadeBiologics) cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium (CascadeBiologics) at 37° C. in 5% CO₂, can be treated with phorbol 12-myristate13-acetate (PMA, 10 ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, # P1585-1MG) and any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification for 6 hours. PMAhas been shown to cause a dramatic increase in TNF-α secretion whichpeaks at 6 hours after treatment. Following incubation, cell culturemedium can be collected and the amount of TNF-a secretion quantifiedusing a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from R&DSystems (# DTA00C).

Antioxidant (AO) Assay:

An in vitro bioassay that measures the total anti-oxidant capacity ofany one of the ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The assayrelies on the ability of antioxidants in the sample to inhibit theoxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) toABTS®⋅+ by metmyoglobin. The antioxidant system of living organismsincludes enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathioneperoxidase; macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin;and an array of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,(3-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum ofendogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the totalantioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all thedifferent antioxidants provides greater protection against attack byreactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone.Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biologicalinformation compared to that obtained by the measurement of individualcomponents, as it considers the cumulative effect of all antioxidantspresent in plasma and body fluids. The capacity of the antioxidants inthe sample to prevent ABTS oxidation is compared with that of Trolox, awater-soluble tocopherol analogue, and is quantified as molar Troloxequivalents. Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (AnnArbor, Mich. USA) can be used as an in vitro bioassay to measure thetotal anti-oxidant capacity of each of any one of the activeingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification. The protocol can befollowed according to manufacturer recommendations.

ORAC Assay:

Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification can also beassayed by measuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients orcompositions. Antioxidant activity indicates a capability to reduceoxidizing agents (oxidants). This assay quantifies the degree and lengthof time it takes to inhibit the action of an oxidizing agent, such asoxygen radicals, that are known to cause damage to cells (e.g., skincells). The ORAC value of any one of the active ingredients, combinationof ingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed inthe specification can be determined by methods known to those ofordinary skill in the art (see U.S. Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and2005/0163880; and commercially available kits such as Zen-Bio ORACAnti-oxidant Assay kit (# AOX-2)). The Zen-Bio ORAC Anti-oxidant Assaykit measures the loss of fluorescein fluorescence over time due to theperoxyl-radical formation by the breakdown of AAPH (2,2′-axobis-2-methylpropanimidamide, dihydrochloride). Trolox, a water soluble vitamin Eanalog, serves as positive control inhibition fluorescein decay in adose dependent manner.

Mushroom Tyrosinase Activity Assay:

In mammalian cells, tyrosinase catalyzes two steps in the multi-stepbiosynthesis of melanin pigments from tyrosine (and from thepolymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase is localized in melanocytesand produces melanin (aromatic quinone compounds) that imparts color toskin, hair, and eyes. Purified mushroom tyrosinase (Sigma) can beincubated with its substrate L-Dopa (Fisher) in the presence or absenceof each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. Pigment formation can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinaseactivity can be calculated compared to non-treated controls to determinethe ability of test ingredients or combinations thereof to inhibit theactivity of purified enzyme. Test extract inhibition was compared withthat of kojic acid (Sigma).

Matrix Metalloproteinase 3 and 9 Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay:

An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substratesinclude collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substratesinclude collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric DrugDiscovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9(AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPsusing a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG42-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoylRG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavage sitepeptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M-1cm-1 at pH 6.0 and above 7). Theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe assayed.

Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 Enzyme Activity (MMP1) Assay:

An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP1 substratesinclude collagen IV. The Molecular Probes Enz/ChekGelatinase/Collagenase Assay kit (# E12055) utilizes a fluorogenicgelatin substrate to detect MMP1 protease activity. Upon proteolyticcleavage, bright green fluorescence is revealed and may be monitoredusing a fluorescent microplate reader to measure enzymatic activity.

The Enz/Chek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay kit (# E12055) from Invitrogenis designed as an in vitro assay to measure MMP1 enzymatic activity. Theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe assayed. The assay relies upon the ability of purified MMP1 enzyme todegrade a fluorogenic gelatin substrate. Once the substrate isspecifically cleaved by MMP1 bright green fluorescence is revealed andmay be monitored using a fluorescent microplate reader. Test materialsare incubated in the presence or absence of the purified enzyme andsubstrate to determine their protease inhibitor capacity.

Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay:

An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1, -2) inhibition assay. COX isa bifunctional enzyme exhibiting both cyclooxygenase and peroxidaseactivities. The cyclooxygenase activity converts arachidonic acid to ahydroperoxy endoperoxide (Prostaglandin G2; PGG2) and the peroxidasecomponent reduces the endoperoxide (Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to thecorresponding alcohol, the precursor of prostaglandins, thromboxanes,and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitor screening assay measures theperoxidase component of cyclooxygenases. The peroxidase activity isassayed colorimetrically by monitoring the appearance of oxidizedN,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD). This inhibitorscreening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes in order to screenisozyme-specific inhibitors. The Colormetric COX (ovine) Inhibitorscreening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical) can be used to analyze theeffects of each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification on the activity of purified cyclooxygnase enzyme (COX-1 orCOX-2). According to manufacturer instructions, purified enzyme, hemeand test extracts can be mixed in assay buffer and incubated withshaking for 15 min at room temperature. Following incubation,arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate can be added to initiate thereaction. Color progression can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 or COX-2 activity canbe calculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the abilityof test extracts to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay:

An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay. LOs are non-hemeiron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the addition of molecularoxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are the mainsubstrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may then beconverted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, that aresubsequently converted to leukotrienes, potent inflammatory mediators.This assay provides an accurate and convenient method for screeninglipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxides generated fromthe incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) with arachidonicacid. The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700, CaymanChemical) can be used to determine the ability of each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification to inhibitenzyme activity. Purified 15-lipoxygenase and test ingredients can bemixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 10 min at roomtemperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid can be added toinitiate the reaction and the mixtures can be incubated for anadditional 10 min at room temperature. Colorimetric substrate can beadded to terminate catalysis and color progression can be evaluated byfluorescence plate reading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition oflipoxyganse activity can be calculated compared to non-treated controlsto determine the ability of each of the active ingredients, any one ofthe combination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification to inhibit the activity of purifiedenzyme.

Collagen Stimulation Assay:

Collagen is an extracellular matrix protein critical for skin structure.Increased synthesis of collagen helps improve skin firmness andelasticity. This bioassay can used to examine the effect of each of theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification onthe production of procollagen peptide (a precursor to collagen) by humanepidermal fibroblasts. The endpoint of this assay is aspectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of procollagenpeptide and cellular viability. The assay employs the quantitativesandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibodyspecific for procollagen peptide has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples are pipetted into the wells and any procollagenpeptide present is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing awayany unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specificfor procollagen peptide is added to the wells. Following a wash toremove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution isadded to the wells and color is developed in proportion to the amount ofprocollagen peptide bound in the initial step. Color development can bestopped and the intensity of the color at 450 nm is measured using amicroplate reader.

For generation of samples and controls, subconfluent normal human adultepidermal fibroblasts (Cascade Biologics) are cultivated in standardDMEM growth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in10% CO₂. The cells can be treated with each of the tested ingredientsand controls for 3 days. Following incubation, cell culture medium iscollected and the amount of procollagen peptide secretion is quantifiedusing the sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) fromTakara (# MK101) as explained above.

Elastase Assay:

ENZCHEK® Elastase Assay (Kit # E-12056) from Molecular Probes (Eugene,Oreg. USA) can be used as an in vitro enzyme inhibition assay formeasuring inhibition of elastase activity for each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The EnzChek kitcontains soluble bovine neck ligament elastin that can be labeled withdye such that the conjugate's fluorescence can be quenched. Thenon-fluorescent substrate can be digested by elastase or other proteasesto yield highly fluorescent fragments. The resulting increase influorescence can be monitored with a fluorescence microplate reader.Digestion products from the elastin substrate have absorption maxima at˜505 nm and fluorescence emission maxima at ˜515 nm. The peptide,N-methoxysuccinyl-Ala-Ala-Pro-Val-chloromethyl ketone, can be used as aselective, collective inhibitor of elastase when utilizing the EnzChekElastase Assay Kit for screening for elastase inhibitors.

Oil Control Assay:

An assay to measure reduction of sebum secretion from sebaceous glandsand/or reduction of sebum production from sebaceous glands can beassayed by using standard techniques known to those having ordinaryskill in the art. In one instance, the forehead can be used. Each of theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe applied to one portion of the forehead once or twice daily for a setperiod of days (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, ormore days), while another portion of the forehead is not treated withthe composition. After the set period of days expires, then sebumsecretion can be assayed by application of fine blotting paper to thetreated and untreated forehead skin. This is done by first removing anysebum from the treated and untreated areas with moist and dry cloths.Blotting paper can then be applied to the treated and untreated areas ofthe forehead, and an elastic band can be placed around the forehead togently press the blotting paper onto the skin. After 2 hours theblotting papers can be removed, allowed to dry and thentransilluminated. Darker blotting paper correlates with more sebumsecretion (or lighter blotting paper correlates with reduced sebumsecretion.

Erythema Assay:

An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can be evaluated usinga Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced by applying a 0.2%solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of a subject. The areais protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the patchis removed and the irritation-induced redness can be assessed using thea* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes inskin color in the red region. Immediately after reading, the area istreated with the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. Repeat measurements can be taken at regular intervals todetermine the formula's ability to reduce redness and irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay:

Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedancemeasurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance metermeasures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skinhas distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conductselectricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasingconductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (relatedto conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. Theunit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for eachtesting day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also bemade. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement theycan equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) andtemperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can betaken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 settingcan be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance valuesof every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reportedwith statistical variance and significance. Each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification can be assayedaccording to this process.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay:

Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can beassessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatmentusing the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measureschanges in skin color in the red region. This is used to determinewhether each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification is inducing irritation. The measurements can be made oneach side of the face and averaged, as left and right facial values.Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. Themeasurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the MinoltaMeter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skinsmoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In onenon-limiting aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C ischroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:

Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay:

Clinical grading of skin tone can be performed via a ten point analognumerical scale: (10) even skin of uniform, pinkish brown color. Nodark, erythremic, or scaly patches upon examination with a hand heldmagnifying lens. Microtexture of the skin very uniform upon touch; (7)even skin tone observed without magnification. No scaly areas, butslight discolorations either due to pigmentation or erythema. Nodiscolorations more than 1 cm in diameter; (4) both skin discolorationand uneven texture easily noticeable. Slight scaliness. Skin rough tothe touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skin coloration and texture.Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration, either hypopigmented,erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of uneven color more than 1 cm indiameter. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay:

Clinical grading of skin smoothness can be analyzed via a ten pointanalog numerical scale: (10) smooth, skin is moist and glistening, noresistance upon dragging finger across surface; (7) somewhat smooth,slight resistance; (4) rough, visibly altered, friction upon rubbing;and (1) rough, flaky, uneven surface. Evaluations were madeindependently by two clinicians and averaged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay With Methods Disclosed inPackman et al. (1978):

Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also be assessed visually byusing the methods disclosed in Packman et al. (1978). For example, ateach subject visit, the depth, shallowness and the total number ofsuperficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject can be carefully scoredand recorded. A numerical score was obtained by multiplying a numberfactor times a depth/width/length factor. Scores are obtained for theeye area and mouth area (left and right sides) and added together as thetotal wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer:

Skin firmness can be measured using a Hargens ballistometer, a devicethat evaluates the elasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping asmall body onto the skin and recording its first two rebound peaks. Theballistometry is a small lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip(4 square mm-contact area) was used. The probe penetrates slightly intothe skin and results in measurements that are dependent upon theproperties of the outer layers of the skin, including the stratumcorneum and outer epidermis and some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:

Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas:

The appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated usingreplicas, which is the impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubberlike material can be used. The replica can be analyzed by imageanalysis. Changes in the visibility of lines and wrinkles can beobjectively quantified via the taking of silicon replicas form thesubjects' face and analyzing the replicas image using a computer imageanalysis system. Replicas can be taken from the eye area and the neckarea, and photographed with a digital camera using a low angle incidencelighting. The digital images can be analyzed with an image processingprogram and are of the replicas covered by wrinkles or fine lines wasdetermined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method:

The surface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic meanof all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profileheight relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximumvertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rzwhich is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values aregiven as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardizedprior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Valuecan be computed by the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness;l_(m)=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of thelocation of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay:

In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification can be evaluatedby using a skin analog, such as, for example, MELANODERM™. Melanocytes,one of the cells in the skin analog, stain positively when exposed toL-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), a precursor of melanin. The skinanalog, MELANODERM™, can be treated with a variety of bases containingeach of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification or with the base alone as a control. Alternatively, anuntreated sample of the skin analog can be used as a control.

Production of Filaggrin:

Changes in the production of filaggrin in keratinocytes due to each ofthe active ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe measured. Filaggrin is the precursor to Natural Moisturizing Factor(NMF) in the skin. Increased NMF increases the moisture content of theskin. Filaggrin production in treated and non-treated keratinocytes canbe determined using a bioassay that analyzes filaggrin concentration inkeratinocyte cell lysates. A non-limiting example of a bioassay that canbe used to quantify filaggrin production is the PROTEINSIMPLE® SIMON™western blotting protocol. For each sample, normal human epidermalkeratinocytes (NHEK) are grown in EPI-200-Mattek EPILIFE® growth mediawith calcium from Life Technologies (M-EP-500-CA). NHEK are incubated ingrowth medium overnight at 37° C. in 5% CO₂ prior to treatment. NHEK arethen incubated in growth medium with 1% test compound/extract or nocompound/extract (negative control) for 24 to 36 hours. The NHEK canthen be washed, collected, and stored on ice or colder until lysed onice using a lysis buffer and sonication. The protein concentrations ofthe samples can be determined and used to normalize the samples. Thelysates can be stored at −80° C. until use in the quantification assay.

The PROTEINSIMPLE® SIMON™ western blotting bioassay assay employs aquantitative western blotting immunoassay technique using an antibodyspecific for filaggrin to quantitatively detect filaggrin in the testsamples. Cell samples are lysed and normalized for proteinconcentration. Normalized samples and molecular weight standards canthen be loaded and ran on a denatured protein separation gel usingcapillary electrophoresis. The proteins in the gel are immobilized andimmunoprobed using a primary antibody specific for filaggrin. Theimmobilized proteins can then be immunoprobed with an enzyme-linkeddetection antibody that binds the primary antibody. A chemiluminescentsubstrate solution can then be added to the immobilized proteins toallow chemiluminescent development in proportion to the amount offilaggrin bound in the immobilization. The chemiluminescent developmentis stopped at a specific time and the intensity of the chemiluminescentsignal can be measured and compared to positive and negative controls.

Production of Occludin:

Changes in the production of occludin in keratinocytes due to each ofthe active ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe measured. Occludin is a protein critical to the formulation of tightjunctions and the skin's moisture barrier function. A non-limitingexample of how occludin production in treated and non-treatedkeratinocytes can be determined is by the use of a bioassay thatanalyzes occludin concentration in keratinocyte cell lysates. Thebioassay can be performed using PROTEINSIMPLE® SIMON™ western blottingprotocol. For the samples, adult human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKa)from Life Technologies (C-005-5C) can be grown at 37° C. and 5% CO2 for24 hours in Epilife growth media with calcium from Life Technologies(M-EP-500-CA) supplemented with Keratinocyte Growth Supplement (HKGS)from Life Technologies (S-101-5). HEKa are then incubated in growthmedium with test compound/extract, no compound/extract for negativecontrol, or with 1 mM CaCl₂) for positive control for 24 to 48 hours.The HEKa are then washed, collected, and stored on ice or colder untillysed on ice using a lysis buffer and sonication. The proteinconcentrations of the samples can be determined and used to normalizethe samples. The lysates are stored at −80° C. until use in thebioassay.

The PROTEINSIMPLE® SIMON™ western blotting bioassay assay employs aquantitative western blotting immunoassay technique using an antibodyspecific for occludin to quantitatively detect occludin in the testsamples. Cell samples are lysed and normalized for proteinconcentration. Normalized samples and molecular weight standards arethen loaded and ran on a denatured protein separation gel usingcapillary electrophoresis. The proteins in the gel are then immobilizedand immunoprobed using a primary antibody specific for occludin. Theimmobilized proteins are immunoprobed with an enzyme-linked detectionantibody that binds the primary antibody. A chemiluminescent substratesolution is then added to the immobilized proteins to allowchemiluminescent development in proportion to the amount of occludinbound in the immobilization. The chemiluminescent development can bestopped at a specific time and the intensity of the chemiluminescentsignal can be measured and compared to positive and negative controls.

Keratinocyte Monolayer Permeability:

Changes in the permeability of a keratinocyte monolayer due to each ofthe active ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe measured. Keratinocyte monolayer permeability is a measure of skinbarrier integrity. Keratinocyte monolayer permeability in treated andnon-treated keratinocytes can be determined using, as a non-limitingexample, the In Vitro Vascular Permeability assay by Millipore (ECM642).This assay analyzes endothelial cell adsorption, transport, andpermeability. Briefly, adult human epidermal keratinocytes from LifeTechnologies (C-005-5C) can be seeded onto a porous collagen-coatedmembrane within a collection well. The keratinocytes are then incubatedfor 24 hours at 37° C. and 5% CO2 in Epilife growth media with calciumfrom Life Technologies (M-EP-500-CA) supplemented with KeratinocyteGrowth Supplement (HKGS) from Life Technologies (S-101-5). Thisincubation time allows the cells to form a monolayer and occlude themembrane pores. The media is then replaced with fresh media with (testsample) or without (non-treated control) test compounds/extracts and thekeratinocytes are incubated for an additional 48 hours at 37° C. and 5%CO2. To determine permeability of the keratinocyte monolayer afterincubation with/without the test compound/extract, the media is replacedwith fresh media containing a high molecular weight Fluoresceinisothiocyanate (FITC)-Dextran and the keratinocytes are incubated for 4hours at 37° C. and 5% CO2. During the 4 hours incubation, FITC can passthrough the keratinocytes monolayer and porous membrane into thecollection well at a rate proportional to the monolayer's permeability.After the 4 hour incubation, cell viability and the content of FITC inthe collection wells can be determined. For the FITC content, the mediain the collection well is collected and fluorescence of the mediadetermined at 480 nm (Em) when excited at 520 nm. Percent permeabilityand percent change in comparison to the non-treated controls can bedetermined by the following equations: Percent Permeability=((Mean Ex/Emof test sample)/Mean Ex/Em untreated control)*100; PercentChange=Percent Permeability of test sample−Percent Permeability ofuntreated control.

Production of Hyaluronic Acid:

Changes in the production of hyaluronic acid in human dermal fibroblastsdue to each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification can be measured. HA is a polysaccharide involved instabilization of the structure of the matrix and is involved inproviding turgor pressure to tissue and cells. As one non-limitingexample, HA production in treated and non-treated adult human dermalfibroblasts (HDFa) cells can be determined using the Hyaluronan DuoSetELISA kit from R&D Systems (DY3614). In this assay, for production ofsamples, subconfluent HDFa cells from Cascade Biologics (C-13-5C) areincubated at 37° C. and 10% CO2 in starvation medium (0.15% fetal bovineserum and 1% Penicillin Streptomycin solution in Dulbecco's ModifiedEagle Medium) for 72 hours prior to treatment. The cells are thenincubated with fresh starvation medium with either test compound,positive control (phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate from Sigma-Aldrich(P1585) and platelet derived growth factor from Sigma-Aldrich (P3201)),or no additive for 24 hours. Media is then collected and frozen at −80°C. until use in the ELISA assay.

Briefly, the ELISA assay employs a quantitative sandwich enzymeimmunoassay technique whereby a capture antibody specific for HA can bepre-coated onto a microplate. Standards and media from treated anduntreated cells are pipetted into the microplate wells to enable any HApresent to be bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing away anyunbound substances, an enzyme-linked detection antibody specific for HAis added to the wells. Following a wash to remove any unboundantibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution is added to the wells toallow color development in proportion to the amount of HA bound in theinitial step. The color development is stopped at a specific time andthe intensity of the color at 450 nm can be measured using a microplatereader.

Inhibition of Hyaluronidase Activity:

Changes in the activity of hyaluronidase due to each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification can be measured.Hyaluronidase is an enzyme that degrades HA. HA is a polysaccharideinvolved in stabilization of the structure of the matrix and is involvedin providing turgor pressure to tissue and cells. As one non-limitingexample, hyaluronidase activity can be determined using an in vitroprotocol modified from Sigma-Aldrich protocol # EC 3.2.1.35. Briefly,hyaluronidase type 1-S from Sigma-Aldrich (H3506) is added to microplatereaction wells containing test compound or controls. Tannic acid can beused as a positive control inhibitor, no test compound can be added forthe control enzyme, and wells with test compound or positive control butwithout hyaluronidase can be used as a background negative control. Thewells are incubated at 37° C. for 10 minutes before addition ofsubstrate (HA). Substrate is added and the reactions incubated at 37° C.for 45 minutes. A portion of each reaction solution is then transferredto and gently mixed in a solution of sodium acetate and acetic acid pH3.75 to stop that portion of the reaction (stopped wells). The stoppedwells and the reaction wells should both contain the same volume ofsolution after addition of the portion of the reaction solution to thestopped wells. Both the reaction wells and the stopped wells areincubated for 10 minutes at room temperature. Absorbance at 600 nm isthen measured for both the reaction wells and the stopped wells.Inhibition can be calculated using the following formulas: Inhibitor (orcontrol) activity=(Inhibitor stopped wells absorbance at 600nm−inhibitor reaction wells absorbance at 600 nm); Initialactivity=control enzyme absorbance at 600 nm; PercentInhibition=[(Initial activity/Inhibitor Activity)*100]−100.

Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated Receptor Gamma (PPAR-γ) Activity:

Changes in the activity of PPAR-γ due to each of the active ingredients,any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification can be measured. PPAR-γ is areceptor critical for the production of sebum. As one non-limitingexample, the activity of PPAR-γ can be determined using a bioassay thatanalyzes the ability of a test compound or composition to inhibitbinding of a ligand. Briefly, fluorescent small-molecule pan-PPARligand, FLUORMONE™ Pan-PPAR Green, available from Life Technologies(PV4894), can be used to determine if test compounds or compositions areable to inhibit binding of the ligand to PPAR-γ. The samples wellsinclude PPAR-γ and fluorescent ligand and either: test compound orcomposition (test); a reference inhibitor, rosiglitazone (positivecontrol); or no test compound (negative control). The wells areincubated for a set period of time to allow the ligand opportunity tobind the PPAR-γ. The fluorescence polarization of each sample well canthen be measured and compared to the negative control well to determinethe percentage of inhibition by the test compound or composition.

Cytokine Array:

Human epidermal keratinocytes are cultured to 70-80% confluency. Themedia in the plate is aspirated and 0.025% trypsin/EDTA is added. Whenthe cells became rounded, the culture dish is gently tapped to releasethe cells. The trypsin/EDTA containing cells are removed from theculture dish and neutralized. Cells are centrifuged for 5 min. at 180×gto form a pellet of cells. The supernatant is aspirated. The resultingpellet is resuspended in EPILIFE™ media (Cascade Biologics). The cellsare seeded in 6-well plates at approximately 10-20% confluency. Afterthe cells became approximately 80% confluent, the media is aspirated and1.0 ml of EPILIFE™, along with phorbol 13-Myristate 12-acetate (“PMA”)(a known inducer of inflammation) and the test composition dilutions areadded to two replicate wells (i.e., 1.0% (100 μl of 100× stock) and 0.1%(10 μl of 100× stock) test compositions are diluted into a final volumeof 1 ml EpiLife Growth Medium). The media is gently swirled to ensureadequate mixing. In addition, 1.0 ml of EPILIFE™ is added to the controlwells, with and without additional PMA. The plates are then incubated at37±1° C. and 5.0±1% CO2 for approximately 5 hours after dosing.Following this 5-hour incubation, all media is collected in conicaltubes and frozen at −70° C.

For analysis, a 16-pad hybridization chamber is attached to 16-pad FASTslides arrayed in triplicate with 16 anti-cytokine antibodies plusexperimental controls (Whatman BioSciences), and the slides are placedinto a FASTFrame (4 slides per frame) for processing. Arrays are blockedfor 15 min. at room temp. using 70 ml S&S Protein Array Blocking buffer(Whatman Schleicher and Scheull). Blocking buffer is removed and 70 mlof each supernatant sample is added to each array. Arrays are incubatedfor 3 hours at room temp. with gentle agitation. Arrays are washed 3times with TBS-T. Arrays are treated with 70 ml of an antibody cocktail,containing one biotinylated antibody corresponding to each of thearrayed capture antibodies. Arrays are incubated for 1 hour at roomtemp. with gentle agitation. Arrays are washed 3 times with TBS-T.Arrays are incubated with 70 ml of a solution containingstreptavidin-Cy5 conjugate for 1 hour at room temp. with gentleagitation. Arrays are washed 3 times with TBS-T, quickly rinsed inde-ionized water, and dried.

Slides can be imaged in a Perkin-Elmer ScanArray 4000 confocalfluorescent imaging system. Array images can be saved and analyzed usingImaging Research ArrayVision software. Briefly, spot intensities aredetermined by subtracting background signal. Spot replicates from eachsample condition can be averaged and then compared to the appropriatecontrols.

Endothelial Tube Formation:

Endothelial tube formation is involved in angiogenesis and micro-vesselcapillary formation. Capillary formation and angiogenesis may contributeto redness and rosacea of the skin. The ability for endothelial cells toform tubes in the presence or absence of test extracts and compounds maybe determined using a capillary tubule disruption assay with pre-formedprimary human umbilical vein endothelial cells (HUVEC) in a cell culturesystem.

Briefly, HUVECs are cultured in vitro on Extracellular Matrix, whichstimulates the attachment and tubular morphogenesis of endothelial cellsto form capillary-like lumen structures. These in vitro formed capillarytubules are similar to human blood vessel capillaries in many aspects.The capillary tube assay is based on this phenomenon and is used forevaluation of potential vasculature targeting agents.

HUVEC cultures are grown in a 5% CO₂ 37° C. cell incubator. The fullgrowth medium for HUVECs is Endothelial Cell Basal Medium (EBM)supplemented with 2% fetal bovine serum (FBS), 12 μg/ml bovine brainextract, 1 μg/ml hydrocortisone, and 1 μg/ml GA-1000(gentamicin-amphothericin). HUVEC cultures between passage 3 and 8 maybe used for all assay experiments.

HUVECs are pre-labeled with fluorescent agent Calcein AM and seeded inExtracellular Matrix coated 96-well culture plate with their full growthmedium. After about four hours of the morphogenesis process, theendothelial capillary tubes should be formed. Then, test agent indesigned doses in 50₁11 volume is applied into the formed capillarytubule cultures as treatment conditions. The no-treatment controls canbe added with vehicle of test agents. Sutent, a FDA approvedanti-angiogenic drug one concentration can be included as assayperformance control. After about six hours of treatment, the endothelialtubule morphology in each well is examined by microscopy, imaged, andthe capillary disrupting activities under treatment conditions can bequantitatively analyzed. Each test conditions can be conducted induplicate wells, including controls.

All of the compositions and/or methods disclosed and claimed herein canbe made and executed without undue experimentation in light of thepresent disclosure. While the compositions and methods of this inventionhave been described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will beapparent to those of skill in the art that variations may be applied tothe compositions and/or methods and in the steps or in the sequence ofsteps of the method described herein without departing from the concept,spirit and scope of the invention. More specifically, it will beapparent that certain agents which are both chemically andphysiologically related may be substituted for the agents describedherein while the same or similar results would be achieved. All suchsimilar substitutes and modifications apparent to those skilled in theart are deemed to be within the spirit, scope and concept of theinvention as defined by the appended claims.

REFERENCES

The following references, to the extent that they provide exemplaryprocedural or other details supplementary to those set forth herein, arespecifically incorporated herein by reference.

-   Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Edition, CTFA, 1982-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fourth edition, CTFA,    1991-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Tenth    Edition, CTFA, 2004-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Twelfth    Edition, CTFA, 2008

1. A method of treating skin, the method comprising topically applyingto the skin an effective amount of a topical composition comprising: oneor both of Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) and a combination ofPEG-50 shea butter and one or both of sodium laureth sulfate and sodiumlauryl sulfate; water; glycerin; triethanolamine; disodium EDTA; one ormore of acrylates copolymer, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, andacrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; and citric acid, andwherein the skin is treated.
 2. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition comprises: one or both of 1 to 10% w/w of Butyrospermumparkii (shea butter) and a combination of 0.0001 to 3% w/w of PEG-50shea butter and one or both of 3 to 15% w/w of sodium laureth sulfateand 5 to 20% w/w of sodium lauryl sulfate; 50 to 80% w/w of water; 0.1to 10% w/w of glycerin; 0.0001 to 3% w/w of triethanolamine; 0.01 to 1%w/w of disodium EDTA; one or more of 1 to 5% w/w of acrylates copolymer,1 to 5% w/w of PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, and 0.1 to 3% w/wof acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; and 0.001 to 1% w/w ofcitric acid. 3.-6. (canceled)
 7. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition comprises: 0.01 to 1% w/w of disodium EDTA; one or more of 1to 5% w/w of acrylates copolymer, 1 to 5% w/w of PEG-150 pentaerythrityltetrastearate, and 0.1 to 3% w/w of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylatecrosspolymer; 0.001 to 1% w/w of citric acid; sodium methyl cocoyltaurate; polysorbate 20; lauramidopropyl betaine; sodium chloridevPEG-12 dimethicone; polyquaternium-7; and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin. 8.The method of claim 7, wherein the composition comprises 1 to 10% w/w ofsodium methyl cocoyl taurate; 1 to 10% w/w of polysorbate 20; 1 to 10%w/w of lauramidopropyl betaine; 0.5 to 5% w/w of sodium chloride; 0.1 to3% w/w of PEG-12 dimethicone; 0.01 to 1% w/w of polyquaternium-7; and0.01 to 1% w/w of hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.
 9. The method of claim 1,wherein the composition is an emulsion, serum, gel, gel emulsion, or gelserum.
 10. The method of claim 1, wherein an effective amount of thecomposition promotes moisturization, smooths skin, renews skin, and/orcleanses skin.
 11. The method of claim 10, wherein the method is toincrease moisturization of the skin and wherein an effective amount ofthe composition promotes moisturization by increasing hydration of theskin.
 12. The method of claim 11, wherein the composition is topicallyapplied to dry skin and wherein dry skin is treated.
 13. The method ofclaim 11, wherein skin hydration is increased within 15 minutes oftopical application of the composition to the skin and/or skin hydrationis increased for at least 24 hours after topical application of thecomposition to the skin.
 14. A composition comprising an effectiveamount of: one or both of Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) and acombination of PEG-50 shea butter and one or both of sodium laurethsulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate; water; glycerin; triethanolamine; oneor more of acrylates copolymer, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate,and acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer[H]; and citric acid,wherein an effective amount of the composition promotes moisturization,smooths skin, renews skin, and/or cleanses skin.
 15. The composition ofclaim 14, comprising: one or both of 1 to 10% w/w of Butyrospermumparkii (shea butter) and a combination of 0.0001 to 3% w/w of PEG-50shea butter and one or both of 3 to 15% w/w of sodium laureth sulfateand 5 to 20% w/w of sodium lauryl sulfate; 50 to 80% w/w of water; 0.1to 10% w/w of glycerin; 0.0001 to 3% w/w of triethanolamine; 0.01 to 1%w/w of disodium EDTA[H]₂ one or more of 1 to 5% w/w of acrylatescopolymer, 1 to 5% w/w of PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, and 0.1to 3% w/w of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; and 0.001 to1% w/w of citric acid. 16.-17. (canceled)
 18. The composition of claim14, further comprising: sodium methyl cocoyl taurate; polysorbate 20;lauramidopropyl betaine; sodium chloride; PEG-12 dimethicone;polyquaternium-7; and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.
 19. The composition ofclaim 18, comprising: 1 to 10% w/w of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate; 1 to10% w/w of polysorbate 20; 1 to 10% w/w of lauramidopropyl betaine; 0.5to 5% w/w of sodium chloride; 0.1 to 3% w/w of PEG-12 dimethicone; 0.01to 1% w/w of polyquaternium-7; and 0.01 to 1% w/w of hydroxypropylcyclodextrin.
 20. The composition of claim 14, wherein the compositionis an emulsion, serum, gel, gel emulsion, or gel serum.